Chumling to Chhokangparo, Tsum Valley

Namaste
This post follows on from the most recent blog post "Into the Tsum Valley"

The Tsum Valley is high in the Himalaya, reached by a side path off the Manaslu Trail, two days walk from the road end at Sotikhola, Gorkha.

Looking back along the path to Chumling 

The valley side here is incredibly steep.  Everywhere you can hear the river a long way below, but you only rarely get a glimpse of it, turquoise from the glacier melt.

In the lower part of the valley many trekkers stay at Chumling, as we did.  There are several lodges there, catering for trekkers with food and accommodation. The village is spread out over the mountain side, with attractive wooden lodges.

The views of the mountains from here are fabulous, looking both up and down the valley.

A water-turned prayer wheel at Chumling

Prayer flags flying at the lodge where we
stayed.

Entering the Tsum Valley is like entering a different world, remote and very Buddhist with reminders at every corner;  prayer flags, chortens, prayer wheels, Gumpas and monasteries abound.







As well as the underlying sound of the river, the air is filled with the sounds of insects, birds, cattle and of local people calling and working in their fields.

Look carefully at the photo alongside to see a group of monkeys.  They were obviously a pest in Chhokangparo too, as we witnessed them boldly raiding the fields for millet and maize, with local people and dogs trying to chase them off.

Leaving Chumling the trail passed gently through woodland and between fields.  Always the river was to be heard below us. Flowers and coloured butterflies decorated the edges of the path.

After an hour or so of gentle walking the path changes. Time to climb steeply!  This is the boundary between the lower steep-sided river valley and the flat glacial plain above, at the top of the valley. I think it may be the remains of a glacial moraine, however it was an hour of hard climbing on the path to the top.
Half way up the steep slope we came across this improvised tented cafe, perched on a small rocky platform. We were carrying our own drinks so did not stop, but did notice the plentiful wild cannabis plants growing around it!

The upper valley has many Buddhist chortens, mainly on hill tops or in prominent places, where they can be seen from afar.  Mani stones, carved with Buddhist words and symbols are used in their making.  Festooned with prayer flags, they add to the special sights of this beautiful valley.

The new lodge where we stayed overnight

We stayed overnight in a very new lodge on the edge of the village of Chhokangparo. We arrived early enough in the afternoon to have chance to relax, and we also explored the village.

The path follows a narrow 'street' through
the village of Chhokangparo.

Stone roofed dwelling

Many of the houses are built of stone and some older buildings have roofs of overlapping stones too. Most newer roofs are of corrugated iron, which is much safer in an earthquake.

The new gateway in Chhokangparo has beautiful Buddhist paintings on the ceiling and walls inside. One in Phillim has similar decorations, and also others I have seen. I am always impressed by the workmanship and the bright colours, despite not understanding the meaning of these pictures and designs.

Looking back at Chhokangparo, with wonderful view of the Manaslu Range beyond.